Metal, Diamond, Pearl, and Precious Stone information

Gold

While pure gold is yellow in color, colored gold can be developed into various colors. These colors are generally obtained by alloying gold with other elements in various proportions.

For example, alloys which are mixed 14 parts gold to 10 parts alloy create 14-karat gold, 18 parts gold to 6 parts alloy creates 18 karat, and so on. This is often expressed as the result of the ratio, i.e.: 14/24 equals 0.585 and 18/24 is 0.750

White gold is an alloy of gold and some white metals such as silver, nickel or palladium. The white color is achieved by a careful choice of the alloying metals, which bleach the deep yellow of pure gold. The amount of alloy mixed with gold is called its karat. The key to understanding gold karat is the karat value over 24. An example is a 14-karat gold wedding ring. It is14/24, which equals 58.3% gold and 41.7% alloy. The white color is achieved by a careful choice of the alloying metals, which bleach the yellow of pure gold. Like yellow gold, the purity of white gold is given in karats.

White gold's properties vary depending on the metals and proportions used. As a result, white gold alloys can be used for many different purposes; while a nickel alloy is hard and strong and therefore good for rings and pins, gold-palladium alloys are soft, pliable and good for white gold gemstone settings, sometimes with other metals like copper, silver, and platinum for weight and durability, although this often requires specialized goldsmiths. The term white gold is used very loosely in the industry to describe karat gold alloys with a whitish hue. Many[who?] believe that the color of the rhodium plating, which is seen on many commercial pieces, is actually the color of white gold. The term "white" covers a large spectrum of colors that borders or overlaps pale yellow, tinted brown, and even very pale rose. The jewelry industry often improves these off-white colors by rhodium plating.

Rose gold is a gold and copper alloy widely used for specialized jewelry. It is also known as pink gold and red gold. As it was popular in Russia at the beginning of the nineteenth century, it is also known as Russian gold, but this term is now obsolete.

Although the names are often used interchangeably, the difference between red, rose, and pink gold is the copper content – the higher the copper content, the stronger the red coloration. A common alloy for rose gold is 75% gold and 25% copper by mass (18 karat). Since rose gold is an alloy, there is no such thing as "pure rose gold".

White Gold vs. Platinum

White gold and platinum are different metals. White gold starts out as gold. Gold is yellow. Platinum is itself a white metal. White gold and platinum have their own properties that make them unique. Platinum is the true white-colored precious metal used in jewelry. It is denser, stronger, but slightly softer on the surface than gold alloys. It will last longer than gold and never needs plating

 

Platinum

Platinum is a naturally white metal. It does not need to be alloyed for color. Jewelry platinum is typically an alloy containing 90% to 95% platinum and the balance alloy. Iridium or ruthenium are used as a hardener alloy. Platinum is usually marked with .900 or .950 to mark its fineness.

There are four reasons for the extra cost of platinum over gold.  First, precious metals are bought and sold based on weight and platinum is nearly twice as heavy as gold.  Second, most gold jewelry in the United States is 58.5% pure (14 karat) and most platinum jewelry is 95% pure.  Third, and perhaps most obvious, platinum is more expensive per ounce than gold.  Finally, platinum is much more difficult to work with, so the labor cost to create a piece of jewelry is higher.  Factor all four of those elements in, and the exact same piece of jewelry could easily cost twice as much, or more, in platinum over gold. Still, platinum is a stronger, more durable metal that never needs plating to retain its white color. 

 

The hardness issue is important when considering the brightness of the finish. The harder the metal, the more shine the finish will show and hold. White gold is harder then platinum therefore it holds its shine longer. Platinum does not wear away. Like all precious metals, platinum scratches. However, the scratch on a platinum piece is merely a displacement of the metal and none of its volume is lost. Platinum achieves a satin finish and maintains it a lifetime.

Let me say that all metal scratches. From the finest steel to the finest Platinum! No metal is immune to scratching. There are, however different alloys that have a. different hardness and thus a greater scratch resistance.

 

 

Plating

The term “plating” is actually short for “electroplating.” Without getting technical, electroplating is the process of covering one metal with a thin layer of another. The item to be plated is immersed in a chemical solution containing the covering metal , electricity is added, and by the process of electrolysis, the suspended molecules of gold are transferred to the piece of jewelry. 

The length of time that the plating lasts will depend on the exposure the jewelry is given

Extreme examples would be when you work with a rough or abrasive surface. For example, when you work with a wrench or when you move a stone. These rough activities can cause really bad scratch lines which cut through the undermetal.

Lighter day to day activities can also gradually cause an unnoticeable wear & tear. For example ,when you strike the ring on a keyboard, when you swipe the ring on a steering

wheel, or lift a luggage, or use a vacuum cleaner.

Direct or constant exposure to some chemical will also cause wear to the plating.

For example solvent, hair spray, and including your own body sweat.

Skin pH can be a key factor as well.  Some skin simply gets along well with the plating than others.  From our experience, in an extreme case, the plating may last for only days for certain few customers.  

 

Black gold and Rose Gold plating are generally more vulnerable to scratches / bumps than other gold plating options. The reason is simply because the inner metal (usually silver or gold) has a very high contrast color with black or pink. For example, when the black or rose gold plated ring gets scratched, you will see a (contrasting) white scratch line which is the color of the inner metal, silver.

 

With the same rationale, we can also draw a conclusion that "Yellow gold plating over solid yellow gold metal" and "White gold plating over silver or solid white gold metal" will yield significantly less obvious scratches. For example, when the white gold plating surface is deeply scratched, you will still see a white / silver base metal, silver.

 

3 Simple ways to take care of your gold/rhodium  plated jewelry

1. Avoid bumping / cracking / scratching the ring on a hard or rough or abrasive surface.

Take off the ring when you need to work with a hard surface or tools.

 

2. Avoid direct contact with chemical / grease / very high temperature

This includes large amount of sweat. Regular body grease is ok. Take off your ring when you go exercise etc.

 

3. Clean the gold plated ring with soft cotton cloth and warm water. Use a tiny drop of liquid soap if needed. Do not use jewelry cloth as it usually contains chemical that will scrub off the surface.

 

 

Rhodium Plating

Rhodium is a chemical element that is a rare, silvery-white, hard, and chemically inert transition metal and a member of the platinum group.  It is one of the rarest and most valuable precious metals.

A variety of jewelry items are made from white gold that are actually rhodium plated to make the jewelry pieces look shinier and become highly durable. White gold is often plated with a thin rhodium layer to improve its appearance while sterling silver is often rhodium plated for tarnish resistance. But it is also important to remember that the plate of rhodium does not actually last for indefinite period of time. One good point about rhodium plated jewelry is that it offers an alternative to people who are hypersensitive to nickel in the low quality gold. The rhodium plating on the other hand, provides the buffer that allows lot of people to easily put on the 14 or 10 K jewelry.

It is nice to own rhodium plated rings but at the same time you need to know how to best keep such jewelry. Never use chemicals on the rhodium pieces. Also, do not use toothpaste or brush the ring with a toothbrush.

 

Black Rhodium Plating

Black rhodium gives a grey-black finish and is an interesting alternative to normal rhodium plating.

 

Rose Gold Plating

Rose gold or pink plating adds a soft rosey color to the piece of jewelry. Rose gold is a gold and copper alloy. A common alloy for rose gold is 75% gold and 25% copper, making up 18 karat rose gold. There is no “pure” rose gold, since it is an alloy of gold and copper. The more copper, the stronger the “rose” color.

 

 

Diamonds

Most natural diamonds are formed at high temperature and pressure at depths of 140 to 190 kilometers (87 to 120 mi) in the Earth's mantle. Carbon-containing minerals provide the carbon source, and the growth occurs over periods from 1 billion to 3.3 billion years (25% to 75% of the age of the Earth). Diamonds are brought close to the Earth?s surface through deep volcanic eruptions by a magma, which cools into igneous rocks known as kimberlites and lamproites.

We have a zero tolerance policy in regards to conflict diamonds.

We support the Kimberley Process (KP), which was started in May 2000 when Southern African diamond-producing states met in Kimberley, South Africa to discuss ways to stop the violent trades of diamonds. We exclusively purchase our diamonds through steadfast and respectful suppliers who also enforce the standards established and upheld by the Kimberly Process.

We only use immaculate Rose Cut Diamonds, Fancy Color Diamonds, Rustic & Raw Diamonds, Diamond Slices, and White and Black Diamonds.

 

Rose Cut Diamonds

The ancient art of faceting a stone to look like an opening rose originated in India in the 16th century. The result is a stone that is still coveted today by high-end designers and consumers alike. This brilliant

 

Color Diamonds

What causes color in diamonds?

Trace elements, structural irregularities, and radiation generally cause fancy diamond color. Here is a breakdown of common causes of natural fancy diamond color.

Yellow Diamonds - Presence of nitrogen

Brown, Pink, and Red Diamonds - Colored graining, which results from structural irregularities in the crystal lattice--sometimes in combination with an impurity.

Blue Diamonds - Presence of boron with possible presence of hydrogen

Green Diamonds - Natural radiation

Grey and Violet Diamonds - Most likely the presence of hydrogen (grey diamonds are known for high amounts of hydrogen, while violet diamonds are still being studied for exact cause of color)

Black Diamonds

- Dark inclusions or impurities, which are great in number and evenly distributed throughout a diamond

Black diamonds are thought to have originated from a star and are also called carbonados.

Their structure is comprised of millions of small crystals clustered together. Unlike the structure of conventional diamonds they are therefore much more difficult to cut.

Generally most black diamonds, especially those which are not certificated are heated to give them their vibrant black color. Heating black diamonds is often considered as an acceptable industry practice for them—given their look and price point. Black diamonds are the only treated (or heated) diamonds that we use in our jewelry.

Orange Diamonds - Structural irregularities in combination with the presence of trace elements like nitrogen, though exact cause of color is still being studied

 

Pearls

Both natural and modern cultured pearl occur in a wide variety of colors. The most familiar colors are white and cream (a light yellowish brown). Black, gray, and silver are also fairly common, but the palette of pearl colors extends to every hue. The main color, or bodycolor, is often modified by additional colors called overtones, which are typically pink (sometimes called rosé), green, purple, or blue. Some pearls also show the iridescent phenomenon known as orient.

 

Natural pearls form in the bodies, or mantle tissue, of certain mollusks, usually around a microscopic irritant, and always without human help of any kind.

 

The growth of cultured pearls requires human intervention and care. Today, most of the mollusks used in the culturing process are raised specifically for that purpose, although some wild mollusks are still collected and used.

 

There are four major types of cultured whole pearls:

* Akoya—This type is most familiar to many jewelry customers. Japan and China both produce saltwater akoya cultured pearls.

* South Sea—Australia, Indonesia, and the Philippines are leading sources of these saltwater cultured pearls.

* Tahitian—Cultivated primarily around the islands of French Polynesia (the most familiar of these is Tahiti), these saltwater cultured pearls usually range from white to black.

* Freshwater—These are usually cultured in freshwater lakes and ponds. They’re produced in a wide range of sizes, shapes, and colors. China and the US are the leading sources.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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